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When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.