Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.